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Letter From Paris

By Harriet Welty-Rochefort

Paris Kiosque - February 2008 - Volume 15, Number 2
Copyright © 2008 Harriet Welty-Rochefort - Used with permission.

Since this article was written, French President Nicolas Sarkozy's popularity has taken a nose dive. His refreshing style no longer thrills as the disenchanted have moved from amused and amazed to annoyed. If he hopes to climb back up in the polls, he will have to abandon what I have dubbed « The Sarko Show ».

It's a bird, it's a plane, it's... SuperSarko !

I don't know about anybody else but I'm having more fun than I've had in ages in France and it's all due to President Sarkozy, alias OmniSarko, President Bling Bling, the Energizer Bunny (Lapin Duracell in French), or Sark the Shark, the private name for him I made up for him in the days I lived in Neuilly where he was Mayor. Why the Shark ? Everytime I looked at him, I thought he was going to devour something so grand was his ambition, even back then.

Almost all French presidents have had nicknames. Charles de Gaulle was « le grand Charles » ; Franois Mitterrand for some odd reason was dubbed « Tonton » (Uncle) ; Giscard d'Estaing wasn't popular enough to get a nickname that stuck ; Jacques Chirac was often referred to as Chichi (pronounced « sheshe »).

But while all had nicknames, none were as down-to-earth, colorful - or nearing disrespect - as the ones for Sarkozy. But maybe that's because Sarkozy is a down-to-earth guy who hasn't bothered to put a lot of kilometers between the presidency and the people. Unlike other presidents, the august position he aspired to hasn't changed him a whit.

He's just kept on doing things SarkoStyle, speeding along at 200 miles an hour, ostentatiously mixing up the private affairs of his heart and the public affairs of the nation, outfoxing reporters who run to catch up with him. Even the most experienced political journalists have a hard time writing anything more than cursory commentaries on Sarkozy's first months in office. Why ? Before there's time to sit down and write an in-depth article, wham, he's already moved on to the next summit, meeting, party, dinner, cruise, leaving all those in his wake exhausted and struggling to keep up.

« At this rate », one humorist cracked, « he'll have finished his five year term in two ». Sarkozy, by the way, has been a blessing for France's chansonniers whose deliciously wicked imitations of the hyperactive Prez play to full houses.

The Sarko Show

The « Sarko Show » started before he was elected as he jumped from town to town, meeting to meeting, burning energy like rubber.

And jogged... and jogged. His style might not be athletically perfect but he was out there, all right, sweating away for all the people to see, as if to say look at me' ! » « Vote for someone active, someone who will bring about change, someone who sprints ! » Now that he's elected (and continues to trot), I sometimes fear he'll make jogging a law by presidential decree and we'll all have to don sports togs and get out there too.

Ok, most presidential candidates aren't exactly slouches when it comes to garnering votes but I think we all thought that Sarkzoy's inordinately high energy level would wear off after he took office. Mais non ! It got worse !

A close-up view

I should have suspected it as much, having had the opportunity to spend an hour with him some years ago when an English teacher friend of mine, Sarkozy's tutor, dreamed up a lesson plan in which I was the lesson. The idea was that I'd present him my book about the French which we would proceed to discuss in English. It didn't quite work out as programmed. Sarko is gifted at many things but languages aren't one of them and our conversation - in English at least - was brief.

However, the meeting gave me a chance to observe him up close. Constantly in motion, he's one of these people who gives the impression of moving even when still. He had a bowl of candy on his desk and offered me one as he popped another into his mouth. As I got up to leave and we were shaking hands, I mumbled : « Perhaps someday I can say that I shook the hands of a future Prime Minister. » « No, » he corrected me, « You can say that you shook hands with a future President. » Did I dream that ? Make it up after the fact ? I don't think so. Nothing less than Numero Uno would satisfy SuperSarko.

And so I shook his hand and he did indeed become President. Mind you, this hasn't done me any particular good. But perhaps, having known him as Mayor of the town I lived in for 18 years, I am less shocked than some by his perpetual agitation. Already in Neuilly, Sarko was on the move. I saw him several times at the local bookstore, I saw him at the local school, I saw him everywhere in fact. He was, as opposition leader Franç ;ois Hollande recently described him, « omniscient, omnipresent and omnipotent ». Even then.

A « rupture » and some firsts

So when he became President, I wasn't surprised that he became an event-a-day man. He promised that his presidency would bring a « rupture » and it did bigtime. He's the first president of France to bring a « re-composed » family to the Elyse (Cecilia, his second wife, with two daughters from a previous marriage, and his two sons from a previous marriage plus Louis, the son Cecilia and he had together). He's the first president to announce he would take a few days to « inhabit » the high office of the Presidency which everyone thought meant going off to a monastery instead of surfacing on a yacht in the Mediterranean. He's the first president to take his vacation in the States, the first president to tell the Americans that « whenever an American soldier falls somewhere in the world, I think of what the American army did for France. » Even the Chicago Tribune, not known for its love of France, penned an editorial stating : « He came, he saw, he charmed the hell out of Congress. »

When Minister of the Interior, Sarko touched off a scandal by calling inhabitants of one of the impoverished suburbs around Paris « scum ». The confrontational attitude remained when he became President. Recently, as he was paying a visit to a fishing community, a fisherman called out a colorful insult to him. Instead of maintaining a Presidential distance and ignoring it, he looked up, pointed at the guy, and invited him to come down and have it out with him man to man !

The Energizer Bunny

One day he's militating for the release of Franco-Colombian hostage Ingrid Bettancourt, on yet another he's invited International Creep Qaddafi to France with full honors. When Qaddafi's visit started getting out of control and the objections to his presence, including from his own Ministers, got louder, Sarkozy lost no time. He pulled a new rabbit out of the hat, former top model, singer Carla Bruni, with whom he was photgraphed at ... Eurodisneyland. This fed the fuel of a huge media fire : Carla Bruni ! Sarko loves glitter, of course, as shown by his celebration of his election at the showy Fouquet's restaurant, the yacht cruise, and his show biz friends so it's no surprise but still... Carla Bruni. Well, actually, she bears an astonishing resemblance to Cecilia so perhaps, everyone said, it's not as much as a shock as one might think.

But Eurodisneyland ? OK, Nicolas loves America but really ! Couldn't he at least have posed with Carla in front of the Louvre or some nice French chateau ? I mean, there are REAL castles all over France !

So...unFrench

But then Sarko is so unFrench in certain ways. For starters, in this country of wine and champagne, he doesn't drink a drop of alcohol. He doesn't smoke (except for expensive cigars). He likes America and says it, for God's sakes !

When it comes to women, on the other hand, he's quite French, in the sense that he's smitten by them and shows it. But he is totally unlike his presidential predecessors. De Gaulle was regal, a faithful husband to Yvonne, and in any case talking about private life in those days was verboten. Mitterrand divided his time between his wife and a paramour with whom he had a daughter (unknown to the general public, known to journalists who did not reveal the liaison and fruit of it until said daughter was already in her late teens). Even Bernadette Chirac candidly told a French newsmagazine that her husband « pleased women » but that she put up with it.

The difference with Sarkozy and former Presidents is that he himself has brought his tumultuous public life out in the open (sometimes with dire consequences the publisher of Paris Match was fired after a cover story featured Cecilia in New York with her lover.

Lest anyone forget, Sarkozy was the first French President to divorce in office. Will he be the first to re-marry in office ? Ah, the wedding that would be !

In any case, the French so far seem to be tolerating their President's antics better than some of their neighbors. SuperSarko's Christmas sojourn in Egypt with Carla Bruni was judged « shameless, irritating, narcissistic » by one German newspaper. An Italian editorialist described the sea change in the Elyse style : « ... on the throne of de Gaulle, a president in shirtsleeves, with an unbuttoned shirt and Alain Delon sunglasses, who receives his ministers with his feet on the table and who uses the familiar « tu » to almost everyone. » Louis XIV would turn over in his grave.

Mais attention ! The French will tolerate most anything but « ennui ». So far Sarkozy has produced and acted in a non-stop one-man show with nary a boring scene. The day the show itself becomes a bore, he'll have to think of something new.

Like keeping still and out of the public eye, for starters ?

Now there's an original idea. For the moment, though, I'm waiting for the next rabbit out of the hat.

Bring it on, President Bling Bling ! Strike me dumb !


Harriet Welty Rochefort is the author of French Toast: An American in Paris Ce leb rates the Maddening Mysteries of the French and French Fried: The Culinary Capers of an American in Paris. French Toast was hailed by the Los Angeles Times as "wise and devastatingly funny". For world-famous chef Alain Ducasse, her second book French Fried "in a lively and hilarious style ... gives an inside look at the world of French cuisine and wine." Both books are published by St. Martin's Press. She is currently working on her third book about the French.

Coming to Paris? Harriet gives tailormade wine and cheese tastings to individuals as well as to university groups. For more information, visit her webpages: www.frenchfolio.com and www.understandfrance.com .

If you've had some funny, startling, satisfying, or dismaying food experiences in France you'd like to share, you may contact Harriet directly at harriet.welty@hwelty.com.

Editor's Note: Dear Readers, while our writers are always delighted to hear and to receive comments, both about their columns in the The Paris Kiosque, as well as your experiences in Paris, they are unable to answer requests for travel information. Thank you for your understanding.

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Monday, 8 September 2008
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